By Brad Johnson
My brother and I began writing about wines
back in December of 2008 and since then a lot has transpired, both personally
and professionally, but the last couple of years were a gut punch of sorts as I
left my job to care for our mother before she passed away.
Leaving my winery job, my dream job, was
difficult but in the long run has been really good for me. In the past two years I began working as a wine
industry consultant helping wineries and other businesses with public
relations, marketing and communications.
Last year my friend and business partner/guru (Kurt Karr) and I were speakers
at the Iowa Wine Growers Association where we shared our views on branding,
social media marketing, and marketing in general. It was a hoot!
This year, after working with a local
creative productions company (we created television commercials for a mutual
client) called MVP Video Productions, we decided to come together and create a
feature length documentary movie, called “Wine Diamonds: Uncorking America’s Heartland.” We’ve been filming since
July 2014 and will continue to shoot until fall of 2015.
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Winemaker John gives Jennifer a barrel sample |
Out and about I get to taste a lot of
wine, a lot of very good wine, and occasionally there are wineries where something
magical is taking place. Those are the
wineries I get very excited about. I’ve
known about Barrelhead Winery (near Dubuque, IA) for several years and
revisited them again this fall with our good friend Jennifer Farnum. We’d planned an all day long winery road trip but never
made it past John Burn’s winery.
Barrelhead Winery is one of Iowa’s (if
not the Midwest) best wineries!
Period. Or is that Exclamation
point?! Either way. Granted, I’ve known John for a while and have
always been impressed with his wines, but on this trip (and another more recent
trip with my friend Martin Blind) it was reinforced.
John was kind enough to take us into his
barrel room and provide us samples of his wines - all estate grown and
made. Our first wine, a Marechal Foch,
straight from the 2014 harvest and still in its stainless steel tank was our
first “barrel” sample.
Extraordinary! If you know
anything about Marechal Foch it is a bugger to work with, in other words, there
is what’s become affectionately known as the “Foch Funk,” a heavy herbaceous
quality that’s just not the most appealing aroma or flavor for a wine. Somehow, someway John has tamed the Foch
beast and created an amazingly special wine.
Let me say that again to those that have ripped out their Marechal Foch
plants - replant, talk to John, and make more of this lovely elixir.
This Foch is so un-Fochlike that some wine
competition judges have docked his Foch wine for lacking Foch characteristic
--- Really!?!? Wasn’t that the
point?
Moving on in the barrel room we were
given samples, of various years, of St. Croix, Leon Millot, GR-7 (Geneva Red 7)
and Marechal Foch. One thing was for
certain - these wines are fantastic! The
St. Croix and Leon Millot, both wines typically suffer under the heavy hands of some winemakers, are elevated to the heavens in this back road winery.
Back at his winery tasting room we were
treated to more exceptional wines. Don’t
get me wrong when I say the following, because his dry red wine are really
amazing and worthy of serious recognition, but his sparkling wines…are as good
as I’ve ever had. Painfully good! He wants to go toe-to-toe with the French in
competition and given what I know about John and his wines, I’d place my bet on
his sparklers!
John uses the traditional method (also
known as Méthode Champenoise) - the slow and laborious way to make sparkling
wines (aka: Champagne style wine) and in my opinion, the only way to make a truly
great sparkler - using his own grapes. Enchanting!
Folks…this is the real deal. If every winery in the Midwest made wines
like these there is little doubt we’d become a serious wine destination!
John is a character, the best sort of
wine character with a lot of personality and passion for wines that others
could emulate. I highly recommend
visiting his winery to enjoy these fantastic wines. You can only find his wines at BarrelheadWinery.
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