Crazy Good Wines!

By Brad Johnson

My brother and I began writing about wines back in December of 2008 and since then a lot has transpired, both personally and professionally, but the last couple of years were a gut punch of sorts as I left my job to care for our mother before she passed away.

Leaving my winery job, my dream job, was difficult but in the long run has been really good for me.  In the past two years I began working as a wine industry consultant helping wineries and other businesses with public relations, marketing and communications.  Last year my friend and business partner/guru (Kurt Karr) and I were speakers at the Iowa Wine Growers Association where we shared our views on branding, social media marketing, and marketing in general.  It was a hoot!

This year, after working with a local creative productions company (we created television commercials for a mutual client) called MVP Video Productions, we decided to come together and create a feature length documentary movie, called “Wine Diamonds: Uncorking America’s Heartland.”  We’ve been filming since July 2014 and will continue to shoot until fall of 2015.

Winemaker John gives Jennifer a barrel sample

Out and about I get to taste a lot of wine, a lot of very good wine, and occasionally there are wineries where something magical is taking place.  Those are the wineries I get very excited about.  I’ve known about Barrelhead Winery (near Dubuque, IA) for several years and revisited them again this fall with our good friend Jennifer Farnum.  We’d planned an all day long winery road trip but never made it past John Burn’s winery.

Barrelhead Winery is one of Iowa’s (if not the Midwest) best wineries!  Period.  Or is that Exclamation point?!  Either way.  Granted, I’ve known John for a while and have always been impressed with his wines, but on this trip (and another more recent trip with my friend Martin Blind) it was reinforced. 

John was kind enough to take us into his barrel room and provide us samples of his wines - all estate grown and made.  Our first wine, a Marechal Foch, straight from the 2014 harvest and still in its stainless steel tank was our first “barrel” sample.  Extraordinary!  If you know anything about Marechal Foch it is a bugger to work with, in other words, there is what’s become affectionately known as the “Foch Funk,” a heavy herbaceous quality that’s just not the most appealing aroma or flavor for a wine.  Somehow, someway John has tamed the Foch beast and created an amazingly special wine.  Let me say that again to those that have ripped out their Marechal Foch plants - replant, talk to John, and make more of this lovely elixir. 

This Foch is so un-Fochlike that some wine competition judges have docked his Foch wine for lacking Foch characteristic --- Really!?!?  Wasn’t that the point? 

Moving on in the barrel room we were given samples, of various years, of St. Croix, Leon Millot, GR-7 (Geneva Red 7) and Marechal Foch.  One thing was for certain - these wines are fantastic!  The St. Croix and Leon Millot, both wines typically suffer under the heavy hands of some winemakers, are elevated to the heavens in this back road winery. 

Back at his winery tasting room we were treated to more exceptional wines.  Don’t get me wrong when I say the following, because his dry red wine are really amazing and worthy of serious recognition, but his sparkling wines…are as good as I’ve ever had.  Painfully good!  He wants to go toe-to-toe with the French in competition and given what I know about John and his wines, I’d place my bet on his sparklers!

John uses the traditional method (also known as Méthode Champenoise) - the slow and laborious way to make sparkling wines (aka: Champagne style wine) and in my opinion, the only way to make a truly great sparkler - using his own grapes.  Enchanting!

Folks…this is the real deal.  If every winery in the Midwest made wines like these there is little doubt we’d become a serious wine destination!

John is a character, the best sort of wine character with a lot of personality and passion for wines that others could emulate.  I highly recommend visiting his winery to enjoy these fantastic wines.  You can only find his wines at BarrelheadWinery.   

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

Terry post:

2010 Port of Leonardtown Winery "1634" Chardonnay

When it comes to wine I am a "homer".  That is, I strongly support the local teams and unabashedly so.  So, it came with a great deal of anticipation and apprehension that I visited the Port of Leonardtown Winery a few weeks ago and bought a case of Vidal Blanc and a case of their premium Chardonnay, labeled "1634".

The anticipation was that I bought a case of the Vidal Blanc - I believe it to be far-and-away their best wine. 

The apprehension was that my last sampling of the 2009 "1634" was deeply disappointing.  It's razor sharp acidity made it nearly undrinkable.

I was hoping that for whatever reason: global warming, Federal Reserve policies, Kepler's harmonic theorem, sunspots, or whatever that the 2010 version of their premium chardonnay would be superior to the 2009 version.

I was not disappointed.

My impressions:  Light wheat color in the glass.  Subtle perfume of flowers and grass in front.  Nicely balanced with the acidity only slightly over-taking the understated sugars.  Medium bodied.  Not a full-bodied monster like French Montrachet and also not overly buttery.  A friendly companion for dining.

I enjoyed a bottle with a dinner of Pasta with Oysters and Mushrooms.  It stood up very well to the challenging umami-intense offering. 

Highly Recommended

$15ish at the winery

Updated on August 22, 2013 based on three subsequent tastings.

2009 Morgan Sauvignon Blanc, Monterey California

Terry Post:

Summer Wine Series

Okay. Okay. Technically I shouldn't be including this Morgan Sauvignon Blanc in the summer wine series as it is no longer summer. But, I bought this wine a few weeks back with the intention of writing about it when it was summers. So, I'll include it under that technicality.

I have a slight bias here as one of my all time favorite wines is the 2005 Morgan "Double L Vineyards" Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands, California: it is nearly a perfect pinot noir. But, I digress...

My impressions: Light straw color in the glass. Typical Sauvignon Blanc impressions on the nose including citrus, pears, grass and more than a little minerality - most noticeable on the finish. Minerals, acidity and grass on the finish. Very nice.

I paired this with a filet of salmon, which I poached in the wine with sliced oranges. It was wonderful.

Second thoughts: Like a lot of people I have grown weary of pedestrian Chardonnay's and am sampling other white wines to find something else to take it's place. Sauvignon Blanc's, such as this offering from Morgan, provides a more interesting interpretation of the dinnertime wine. With a strong acidic backbone, a stony minerality and a pleasant nose this Morgan is pretty much dead-on as the sort of dining partner with which I could become accustomed. Highly recommended.

$14.99 at The Wine Seller, Herndon Virginia

~ Terry

2006 Willowcroft Farm Vineyards, Cabernet Franc, Virginia

Terry post:

There are nine grades of cork exported from Portugal for the purpose of stopping wine in bottles. Those grades are:

• Flor


• Extra


• Superior


• 1st


• 2nd


• 3rd


• 4th


• Agglomerated


• Colmated

I bring the grades of cork up for discussion because corks are so very important when it comes to the health of a bottle of wine. A good cork retains the labor of the winemaker while a bad cork provides a route for oxygen to invade and destroy.

The truth of the matter that bad corks are rare. Really rare. I have not pulled a bad cork in ages, until this evening. When I pushed my corkscrew into the 2006 Willowcroft Cabernet Franc, the cork moved down the neck of the bottle - I was able to retrieve the cork, but I had my concerns about the poor seal.

My impressions: Light ruby in the glass. Almost nothing on the nose, with repeated sloshings being necessary to release a hint of cherries. Moderately tannic. Short dry, herbal finish.

Second thoughts. It is my belief that a 2006 Cabernet Franc is is an old wine - likely past its prime. So, I should not be too disappointed with the results - cork problem or not.

My first bottle from Willowcroft was a surprisingly approachable Riesling with food friendly characteristics.

I has hoping that this Cab Franc would be equally pleasant. It brings me no pleasure to observe that is was not.

~ Terry

2008 Willowcroft Farm Vineyard, Riesling, Virginia

Terry post:

Summer Wine Series

According to the maps app on my Droid phone, Willowcroft Farm Winery lay at the end of a three-mile dirt road. As my wife and I bounced down the narrow dirt road I seriously questioned whether my navigation unit had lost its digital marbles.

Fortunately for me Willowcroft is three miles down a dirt road and after the trip I can report that the wines are very much worth the bumpy ride.

We arrived around 2:00 p.m. this past Sunday afternoon and were struck by the beauty of the site. A lot of wineries are beautiful to view but a scant few have a gorgeous view across an adjoining valley and the Blue Ridge Mountains from its hillside location. Willowcroft does.

Working behind the counter, Chuck (very helpful) provided us samples of eight wines: five whites and three reds. We tasted an un-oaked Chardonnay, Seyval, Albarino, Riesling, Vidal Blanc, Red blend, Merlot and Cab Franc for only $5 per person. The Riesling and the Cab Franc were far and away the most interesting. I would note for my friends in Iowa that Willowcroft is offering a Traminette this year for the first time - while I wasn't able to taste it, Chuck thinks that it is a good wine. Maybe next time...

My impressions: Pale in the glass. Green apples and citrus profoundly on the nose. Medium bodied with sufficient acidity acidity to stand up to more than the typical Riesling pairings. Best when cold. Flattens out a little when it warms up. Ever so slight hint of tannic astringency at the end - grape seeds maybe? Moderately long citrus finish. Recommended.

Second thoughts: The typical pairing for Riesling is with spicy curry dishes, Chinese take out and other entrees which don't seem to fit any other wine. At 1% RS this is not a typical Riesling and combined with an almost Sauvignon Blanc like-backbone it is deserving of more upscale dining considerations than "take out". I think this wine would stand up very well with pasta dishes with butter or cream based sauces - particularly were seafood in the mix. Don't get me wrong: this is not a razor sharp Chardonnay. But it is balanced so nicely it would be a shame were not its full potential realized.

$15.99 at the winery.

~ Terry

2009 Port of Leonardtown Winery, Vidal Blanc, St. Mary's County, Maryland

Terry post:

Summertime Wine Series

The wine laws in Maryland are a morass of legislation designed for one purpose and one purpose alone: to protect financial interests of the beer and the booze wholesalers, distributors and retailers. For all the talk in Annapolis regarding supporting small business they have utterly failed to act in a meaningful way to support the state’s small wineries and that is a damned shame.

Fighting against the entrenched interests in Annapolis are a handful of grape growers in St. Mary’s county who have founded a co-op through which to sell their grapes and produce their wine. Due to the cruelly-burdensome alcohol laws in Maryland, the wine is available at the winery and at a very small handful of local restaurants and retail outlets. The wine cannot be shipped.

The Port of Leonardtown Winery is located in solid concrete building along side a small creek. Outside it is very basic. Inside is where the magic takes place.

On a very hot Sunday afternoon I spent about 90 minutes with two of the co-op members: Gerald and Connie Byrne. I sampled everything which they had to offer and found two which I chose to buy and take home for further study.

My impressions: Pale straw color in the glass. Austere when poured chilled, unfolding to melon and pears at it warmed in the glass. Moderately acidic edging towards tartness - food friendly. Short herbal finish. Drink now. Recommended.

I paired the Vidal Blanc with my wife’s hearty fish stew served over toasted French bread with pressed garlic and olive oil. They were superb together.

Bottom line: The Port of Leonardtown Winery makes a graceful Vidal Blanc which is well suited to pair with Maryland staples such as fish, chicken and crabs. The winery is a small gem which restaurateurs and wine lovers alike should embrace and appreciate NOW.

$15 at the winery.

~ Terry

2008 Teldeschi White Zinfandel, California

Terry post:

Summertime truly is the time to relax with one's friends and what goes better with friends and summertime than a nice quaffable wine?

For many wine drinkers, White Zinfandel is the perfect summer drink. Easy to find. Easy to buy and easy to drink.

White Zinfandel is also the Rodney Dangerfield of wines as it doesn't get any respect. Many WZs are one-dimensional quaffs with overwhelming fruit (usually strawberries) on the nose, moderate alcohol and a low price.

When a WZ comes along and pushes the boundaries: that is something worth talking about.

My impressions: Medium pink in the glass. First in the glass my immediate impression was CHARDONNAY. As it opened up the initial predominant Chardonnay nose softened to crushed raspberries with a hint of flowers. Slightly tannic - think of crushed grape seeds. Moderate acidity on the ripe-berry finish. Recommended.

Second and Third Thoughts: Much, much more interesting than the Beringer White Zinfandel which I sampled a few weeks back. Decent acidity - some food pairing options here. There is a hint of woodiness here which is most noticeable on the finish and I don't know if this is a result of the wine spent any time in oak. One day after tasting I begin, I see this wine as more of a Rose than a WZ.

I think you'd find this an interesting alternative to the too-sweet, run-of-the mill White Zinfandel's.

$9.95 at The Wine Seller in Herndon, VA.

~ Terry

Tasting Notes: Pinotage

Brad Post:

Hailed as South Africa’s own wine grape, Pinotage, a genetic cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsaut/Hermitage (frequently used as a blending grape to build powerful southern Rhone reds), was last night’s wine selection. Efforts to locate this elusive, at least in eastern Iowa, proved to be a challenge but finally my A-team of wine sleuths discovered three for our tasting.

1. Westerland (2006) Pinotage, South Africa. (Source: Hy Vee, Cost: $10.99, Alc., 14%).

Very low intensity ruby tinted with a noticeable rim variation and thick, long lasting viscosity.  Very little fruit was evident but there were earthy notes of gravel, dusty roads, oak and butter.  On the palate this wine displayed a short taste of blackberry up front followed by a nice amount of oakiness.  Little tannin and lightly astringent.  A mild medicinal quality reminiscent of antiseptic lingered post-swallow.  After a few minutes we were able to detect a pronounced coffee scent.  An okay wine.  Recommended with reservations.

2. Warwick (2006) Pinotage, Stellenbosh, South Africa. (Source: Hy Vee, Cost: $19.99, Alc., 14.5%).

All three wines were of low to moderately low intensity.  Ruby clear with thick, long lasting legs and moderate rim variation. On the nose this Pinotage opened up with rich fruit aromas of prune and processed fruit; followed by oak, vanilla, and buttery scents. Nice.  My palate was pleasantly surprised when an array of yumminess arrived across my tongue, first with fruit, then smoky wafts of oak, vanilla, spice, and maybe a dash of soy.  A slightly aggressive dose of tannin and a gorgeously mouth filling medium bodied wine that sent waves of flavor and minerality on for a long time.  Nice balance.  A winner!  Highly Recommended.

3. Westerland (2005) Pinotage, South Africa. (Source: Hy Vee, Cost: $10.99, Alc., 14%).

Garnet hued wine with an orange-brown rim variation. First sniffs reveal little else other than a barnyard or wool aroma.  Not a terrible odor but definitely an opinionated wine.  No fruit.  My palate was clobbered with smoke, spice, leather and potent tannins.  Drying. The astringency was quite aggressive and coated my mouth.  Lacks complexity.  Recommended with reservations.

Post-Tasting Notes:  This was a good tasting.  Despite my criticisms all three wines were pretty good!  The two Westerland wines (note the different vintages) were recommended with reservations, not because I hated any of them, but because our group of four were split between them to take the second place finish.  The Warwick was by far the best of the three!  You can always tell the favorites by how quickly the bottles empty after our formal tasting.  Warwick was first to go!

One final comment.  About midway through the tasting one of our evaluators stated what I had been thinking: “doesn’t this (Pinotage) remind you of Marechal Foch?”  Yes, it did!  Marechal Foch is one of the wine grapes growers in cold-climates cultivate and frequently is at the bad end of many jokes because of its aggressive personality (e.g., earthy qualities, leather, tobacco).  Interesting.

NV Dolin Vermouth De Chambery, Blanc, France

Terry post:

Everything I know is wrong.

Or, so that is how things seem this afternoon after sampling a French Vermouth served over ice.

Earlier in the day I drove over to The Wine Seller and put myself in the hands of Lucinda. I told her I was looking for light summertime wines to sample and that I didn’t want to limit myself to only White Zinfandel.

She went to the racks and returned with several bottles of wine - the most surprising being a French Vermouth. I know what you are thinking: Vermouth, are you freakin’ kidding me! Stay with me on this one.

Like most people I see Vermouth as a cheap sweet wine with practical limitations at softening the rough edges of gin/vodka in a Martini. Vermouth is a drink that is reserved for the shuffleboard set. Vermouth is everything in a wine which I hold in distain: it is sweet, it is one dimensional, it is boring.

Like I said before: everything I know is wrong.

Ever see the movie, “Charade”? There is a scene at the beginning of the movie, where Cary Grant meets Audrey Hepburn. Hepburn is sitting outdoors at a ski resort enjoying an adult beverage with the Swiss Alps laid out before her. I imagine that Ms. Hepburn is sipping a cold Dolin Vermouth De Chambery as Cary Grant approaches her. I don’t know what she is drinking, but it SHOULD be this drink.

My impressions: Clear in the glass. Herbal. A walk in a cool pine forest at dawn. Sweet but balanced with the herbs. A rumor, just a rumor, of bitterness on the lingering finish. Highly recommended.

Second thoughts: This wine stands on its own two legs. While it would blend well in any drink of distilled spirits, I sampled it on its own over ice and did not find it wanting.

A perfect after dinner aperitif.

16% alcohol by volume

$15.99 at The Wine Seller

~ Terry

Tasting Notes: Merlot

Brad Post:

If the acclaimed wine movie Sideways (2004) taught us one thing it was to despise Merlot! The now famous scene is played out just as a pair of friends are about to enter a wine-restaurant (to meet their dates), when Jack says “If they want to drink Merlot, we're drinking Merlot” to which Miles poignantly rebukes “No, if anyone orders Merlot, I'm leaving. I am NOT drinking any f*****g Merlot!” These two lines continue to echo throughout the wine world in both economic and preference terms.  Public opinion toward Merlot took a serious hit as a result of this movie!

I mentally prepared myself for this tasting given the recent negative history of this noble varietal.  We selected three Merlots, one each from Australia, California, and Chile (all tasted blind and in this order).

1. Marquis|Philips (2008) Merlot, South Eastern Australia.  (Cost: ~$12, Source: Vineria Wine Shop, Alc.,16.5%).

A very dark and intensely hued ruby wine with extraordinarily long lasting legs captured my attention.  Initial scents of blackberry, prune and jam followed by oak and black pepper.  Was hit over the head by wafts of alcohol. Potent!  Subtlety was not achieved on the palate as black pepper overwhelmed my taste buds.  Moderate tannins accompanied the hot, lingering finish of a wine with, in my humble opinion, too much alcohol.  Wickedly hot.  If you like aggressively constructed wines with a kick, you’ll love this!  Although I might cellar it for a couple of years to let it calm down some. Good.  Recommended ++.

2. Casa La Joya Reserve (2006) Merlot, Colchagua Valley Chile.  (Cost: ~11, Source: Vineria Wine Shop, Alc.,14.5%).

All three wines were deeply hued and ruby colored.  First sniffs revealed barnyard odors reminiscent of Brettanomyces (i.e., a bacterial infection of the wine that some believe to add complexity). The barnyard aromatics of this Merlot overpowered any other scent that may have been hidden underneath.  Initially on the palate I picked up cherry and some oak, but the post-swallow bitterness that followed ruined the wine for me.  Stinky and unappealing.  Not recommended.

3. Robert Mondavi Private Selection (2008) Merlot, California.  (Cost:?  Source: ?, Alc.,13.5%).

A lower intensity purple-ruby colored wine opened up and offered berry aromas, oak and vanilla, a hint of dusty earth, and a whiff of butter.  Nice. A fruit-forward wine infused with black cherries and raspberries accompanied with an excellent balance of acid and astringency.  Not too much of anything…just the right amount of yumminess!  Easy to drink.  Recommended +++.

Post-Tasting Notes:  Two things come to mind: 1) what is the deal with ridiculously high alcohol wines?  2) After tasting these few Merlots it seems apparent why the French were so wise to use it as a blending wine.  Not terribly interesting or complex by itself but I can see where it’s particular qualities would benefit a potent partner, such as Cabernet Sauvignon.  The favorites of this tasting: #1 – Mondavi and #2 – Marquis|Philips – both good wines.

2008 Rock Rabbit, Sauvignon Blanc, California

Terry post:

Summer Wine Series

It is true that I spend too much time drinking red wines and not enough time sampling the lighter fare such as Sauvignon Blanc.

I don’t have too much to say about the Rock Rabbit brand. We carried it at Restaurant 213 as a lower-priced Sauvignon Blanc and it sold well.

My Impressions: Pale straw color in the glass. Stone, grass, modest fruit and a hint of spice (10% Gewurtraminer) on the nose and across the palate (The Gerwurtraminer was not co-fermented with the Sauvignon Blanc - I suspect the wine maker hoped to soften its razor-sharp edges). Unabashedly tart, with fruit under-represented resulting in an off-balanced wine. Lingering tart finish. Recommended with conditions: 1) Not a pool-side quaffer and not the sort of wine you’d want to sip on without food, 2) Would recommend with hard cheese (think Parmigiano-Reggiano) and other hearty nibbles, and 3) It might work with grilled white meats.

This is a personal bias of mine: I like some fruit in my wine. The major flaw of this offering is its overly tart nature combined with the thinness of the fruit. There are plenty of acidic wines which I have enjoyed - each having a level of fruit holding the whole package together.

It's not a great wine and it's not a terrible wine. With all of my complaining about many wines lacking a backbone - the 2008 Rock Rabbit Sauvignon Blanc has a cold-steely, razor-sharp backbone of immense proportions. My only caveat: the wine drinker had better be ready to pucker up.

90% Sauvignon Blanc and 10% Gewurtraminer in a handy screw-top bottle

13.5% alcohol.

$8.99 at retail.

~ Terry

2008 Beringer California Collection, White Zinfandel, California

Terry post:

Summer Wine Series

As I have said many times before, "If you like it - it is good wine". And, that axiom also includes summer quaffers such as the Beringer White Zinfandel. Adding to that: don't let wine snobs stop you from drinking something that you like at the dinner table, poolside or at a picnic.

There IS a place for easy drinking wines and the wine buying customer can drink whatever they choose recognizing that there are limits to any wine - including those consumed poolside.

My impressions: Pink in the glass. Strawberries and a hint of raspberries on the nose when first poured. Strawberries (again) and soft citrus across the palate with a long syrupy-fruit finish. Its overly sweet character makes it nearly impossible for food pairing as the sweet strawberries will overwhelm almost anything with which it is served. Best enjoyed COLD - served alone before or after a meal. Recommended.

Second thoughts: This wines needs to be served COLD. As the wine warmed in the glass the fruit characteristics disappeared leaving only an indistinguishable muddle of fruit on the nose and medicinal finish. Not food-friendly as it will obliterate any other competing elements in the meal to which it accompanies.

$7.00 at Cheers

~ Terry

2007 Beringer, California Collection, Chardonnay, California

Terry post:

Summer Wine Series

The first thing you need to know about any Beringer wine is that the brand has multiple product lines from which to choose, including:

· Private Reserve

· Knights Valley

· Napa Valley

· California Collection

This means that the consumer should be mindful of which product line the wine originated. The Private Reserve are the small-batch, hand-crafted product while the California Collection is their mass market product.

My impressions: Straw in color. Subtle buttery-oakiness layered with floral notes in the glass. A quickly passing hint of acidity at the finish. Easy drinking quaffable wine. As their low priced offering, this Beringer Chardonnay under-promises and over-delivers. Recommended.

This wine would fit nicely as a slightly-formal summer wine which would pair well with grilled chicken, cheese tray or even fresh fruit. Would not recommend it alongside any cream or butter-sauced entree.

A California Chardonnay at a reasonable price. Similiar to the Smoking Loon Syrah which I reviewed earlier, this wine fits comfortably in a value-niche. Neither the Beringer Chardonnay nor the Smoking Loon Syrah had any significant flaws (or outstanding characteristics, for that matter) and were very reasonably priced: this equals VALUE for the wine consume

$7.99 at the Giant Supermarket

~ Terry

2007 Smoking Loon, Syrah, California

Terry post:

Smoking Loon is another one of those brands for which I have had a great deal of experience with and with which I am favorably disposed.

For a medium-priced wine they have generally provided me excellent value for the price - a good wine at an even better price. Smoking Loon usually scores well on my quality-price continuum.

I was then a little disappointed when I popped open a bottle of their 2007 Syrah Wednesday evening. I did not get the fruitiness which I have come to expect with a California Syrah. What I got was something different: something not quite Syrah lacking the "oomph" and intensity which I crave in this varietal. Maybe Smoking Loon is test marketing Syrah-lite?

My impressions: Medium red in the glass. Cherries followed by pepper, smoke and spice box on the nose. Fruit and noticeable tannins nicely balanced across the palate. Food friendly. Light bodied for a Syrah. Brief finish with spice box again. No fatal flaws. No outstanding characteristics, either. Recommended.

Second thoughts: I know that if you read the words above you'll wonder why I still recommend the wine. Well, it is price-quality continuum thing. While not living up to expectations of a Syrah, it's price point over-rides that consideration. Were this a $19.99 bottle I would not recommend it. At $5.99 it is a great value and I am willing to overlook a technical shortcoming or two.

Smoking Loon web site here.

$5.99 on sale at Giant Supermarket.

~ Terry

Tasting Notes: Syrah

Brad Post:

I’ll be the first person to admit I lack sophistication when it comes to wine appreciation. Nine weeks ago when I began my wine sensory analysis odyssey, part of my enology certificate from Des Moines Area Community College; I was better able to detect a wine flaw (e.g., volatile acidity, cork taint, acetaldehyde and other nasties) than to describe the renowned “cat pee” odor in a Sauvignon Blanc. Since then, guided via online lectures and through experiential learning, my wine appreciation lexicon and abilities to detect aromas/flavor and describe them have improved significantly.

In contrast to my brother’s write-ups, whose tasting notes originate from years of experience as a restaurant wine director, his informative and often poetic prose bridge the gustatory gap between good wine and real-world food-pairings. My wine training evolved from making wine to learning about appreciation under the tutelage of a professional winemaker, sensory analysis instructor (first level sommelier), and wine competition organizer and judge. So, it would be fair to say my training leans more toward the scientific (a step-by-step evaluation procedure) but, in the process, I also hope to infuse a bit of “brad” in the writings as to keep them less academic.

Nearly 30 wines later, we are introduced to three new red wines, one from California, another from Washington, and the final from Colorado – each wine is 100% Syrah. Whether you’re from Australia and call it “Shiraz” or from the southern part of France and simply know it as a “Rhone” valley wine (i.e., Côtes du Rhône) we are talking about the same grape! Big and bold, Syrah, is typically a heavily extracted and powerful red wine. Here are my notes from the Syrah tasting, in the order sampled:

1. Cline (2007) Sonoma County, Syrah (CA). (Alc. 13.5%, Source: HyVee, Cost: ~$10).

Deeply intense purple wine whose initial blackberry and cherry fruit essence was pleasant to smell. Bright and lively almost to the point of puckering, this tart blackberry imbued wine brought with it light astringency, moderate tannins, and just the right amount of oak. Tart. The up-front acidity and lively fruit gave way to a bit of heat mid-palate and post swallow. More watery than I expected. Moderately long and fruity finish but tends to smell better than it tastes. Good.

2. Snoqualmie (2003) Columbia Valley, Syrah (WA). (Alc. 13.5%, Source: HyVee, Cost: ~$9).

This slightly browning Syrah suggested her advancing age immediately. Right away I noted there is “a lot going on” in this glass! First off, notes of buttery goodness and some caramel, toasted nuts, earthy loam, and do I get “barnyard?” – not sure, but something farmish; cooked dark fruit and jam, and finally just a trace of chocolate. Wow! My mouth was happy to accept the full, creamy, rich, whole milk-like coating first with black cherries, and then smooth lightly burned toast, some oak and a wonderfully pleasant smoky finish. BIG! SMOOTH! SEDUCTIVE! Cherries persist on the palate for a long, long time. Buy it now and drink it today or yesterday – time is running out for this hidden, bottom shelf wine. Surprised.

3. Canyon Wind (2006) Grand Valley, Syrah (CO). (Alc. 13.6%, Sources: Winery, Cost: ~$18).

Initial scents of something akin to “pee” gave way to dusty, musty, rich earth and spicy pepper qualities and oak smoke. No fruit but very fascinating. The flavor profile of this wine had me scribbling like mad: “Rich, tart, cherry, blackberry, spice, black pepper.” HOLY COW! “light astringency, moderate tannins, lingering spiciness, persistent cherry.” RICH. THICK. First impressions are wrong – this wine is delicious. Seriously COMPLEX. Such a great, long lasting finish laced with cherries and black pepper (and smoke) kept me wanting more and imagining ways I could steal away with the contents! Look out California – Colorado is in the house!!!

Post Tasting Notes: What a great tasting! Our favorites were the Canyon Wind (3 picked) and the Snoqualmie (1 picked). Upon the reveal we were surprised to find the Cline at the bottom of our favorite list; and thrilled to see Colorado at the top followed closely by the Washington wine! Cheers to Colorado whose wines are really gaining traction. The full-bodied style crafted by the two favorites seem to be indicative of the traditional Rhone style, big and bold! Take home message: Watch out for Colorado wines (buy some too) and get your hands on the quickly fading, yet wonderful, Snoqualmie Syrah. Cheers!

2005 Eagle Eye, Muscat Canelli, Napa Valley, California

Terry post:

Brand matters. The quality of the product, its price and how it is represented to the public - when bundled up equals brand. Think about the great brands: Coke-a-Cola, Apple, Disney and Caterpillar: each has a well-defined brand image which they closely control to ensure a consistent unambiguous message to the consumer. A good brand is easily identified. So too is a less

than good brand.

So. Why a short discussion about "brand" when this is a blog site about wine? Well, the answer to that can be found in the labeling of the 2005 Eagle Eye, Muscat Canelli. This is not the label of a serious winery and it send entirely the wrong message to the buying public. In a competitive wine market the last thing a wine producer wants is to be is above average in price and below average in brand.

My impressions: Flowers perfume the nose. Overwhelming - pleasantly so - dose of lychee with a moderate finish. Nicely balanced for a Muscat. My immediate though when sipping the wine was that it would be great with hot Thai or Indian curries. This is far-and-away the most appealing Muscat I've ever enjoyed and not just for sipping poolside. Recommended.

Second thoughts: Of course, wine labeling does not need to be overly serious. Australian critter wines have proven that a light-hearted take on wine can be successful. But in those cases, the wines were aimed squarely at the younger wine buyers for whom the playfulness of the brand was an asset.

Eagle Eye makes some fine wine. I was impressed with this Muscat and have also been impressed with their red blend, "Voluptuous". It is sad then when I all-too-often see bottles of Eagle Eye in the discount bin at the wine shops - customers unsure what to make of the brand.

Maybe I am making too much of a fuss about their branding choices. But ask yourself after visiting their web site: Is this a brand that you'd invest $20 to $40 to sample their product?

$21.99 from the winery. Less in the discount bins.

100% Muscat.

~ Terry